How to DIY Self Watering Pots

How to DIY Self Watering Soil Planters

If you’re a plant parent like myself who’s always looking for ways to simplify their plant care routine, then you’ve come to the right place! Today I’m showing you How to DIY Self Watering Soil Planters.

Oh and pssst, Instagram saw it first! Follow my page here to be a part of my wonderful houseplant parent community.

Here are links to Amazon for the items I used in this guide!

Cachepot (no drainage)
Square 4 inch Plastic Pot (with drainage)
Water Wicking String

It’s important to use Water Wicking String for this tutorial because most strings that aren’t the same material won’t efficiently wick water or they slowly deteroriate.

Cut your piece of string and run it through two of the drainage holes, leaving you a loop inside the planter.

So with one hand you’ll need to hold the string in place so that it rests 50% into the pot. With your other hand start filling your planter with soil so that the string is secured in place.

After this you can add your plant into the pot. Test your cachepot once more to ensure the strings reach the bottom. It’s typically safer to cut more string than less.

Once planted and all together, remove your pot from the cachepot. For the first time watering you will want to do it seperately on a tray to ensure all the soil gets evenly saturated. After this initial watering you won’t need remove to water again!

So now that the plant has been pre-watered, add your planter back into the cachepot which now has a full water reservoir on the bottom.

And that’s all there is to it! I’ve had these two plants set up in this for over 3 months and honestly they are the quickest growing plants in my collection right now. The access to water is very beneficial as the plant only pulls up as much water as it needs, and none that it doesn’t.

Thank you for reading my guide today on How to DIY Self Watering Soil Planters! If you enjoyed this article PIN it to your pinterest boards! Your followers will thank you for it.

Check out more of my planty articles on my site here!

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Top 10 Favorite RARE Houseplants!

Top 10 Favorite RARE Houseplants! Hey planty people and welcome to my blog! I wanted to show and talk about some of my favorite rare plants in my collection.

My Favorite RARE Houseplants!

While you’re here check out my Instagram page for my plants!

Without further delay, let’s get into them!

1. Philodendron Billietiae

Philodendron Billietiae
I’ve been growing this Billietiae for almost 2 years now. My most recent venture was propagating him into 3 pieces, and planting them back together! He’s growing so full now!

2. Monstera Thai Constellation

Monstera Thai Constellation
I went a full 7 months without a single new leaf from this guy. One day he pushed out a new leaf, and soon after another, and then again with one more now! All within a few months, maybe he just needed time to settle in.

3. Philodendron Hederaceum Variegata

Philodendron Hederaceum Variegata
I was so fortunate to get this plant from a trade last year, it’s quickly become one of my favorites! Currently growing up a Coco Coir pole, can’t wait to see some really big leaves one day.

4. Philodendron Fibrosum

Philodendron Fibrosum
The Fibrosum was on my wishlist for years, and one day my friend gifted me a cutting from his! I’ve grown that cutting into this gorgeous beast today! Obsessed with the hairy petioles.

5. Alocasia Zebrina Reticulata

Alocasia Zebrina Reticulata
A once more common Alocasia now a bit more elusive. Happy to have snagged this specimen before the prices jumped! But I see them working their way back down now so all will be well again.

6. Anthurium Papillilaminum

Anthurium Papillilaminum
I am SHOCKED I even own this plant! Let alone it growing! My ultimate goal is try and hybrid him between my other Anthuriums!

7. Philodendron Paraiso Verde

Philodendron Paraiso Verde
I imported this specimen as a one leaf cutting with a single short root. Soon after coming home he rooted like crazy and shot off a bunch of leaves! I’ve since propagated him and planted more back together to create a full mother plant.

8. Thaumatophyllum Williamsii

Thaumatophyllum Williamsii
A slightly more uncommon Thaumatophyllum in the family, but I love him dearly. His new leaves come out already pretty big, and by the time they’ve hardened off it’s doubled in size!

9. Philodendron Florida Ghost

Philodendron Florida Ghost
I’ve had a handful of Philodendron Florida Ghosts run through my house, and this one was the first to actually give me those iconic ghosty leaves! The secret is bright light and patience!

10. Philodendron White Knight

Philodendron White Knight
This little guy has gone through the ringer with me. He was once a big plant with large leaves, then BAM! Root rot! Restarted the whole plant and all the rest of my propagation attempts rotted. Except this one! He’ll return to his former glory soon.

Well that’s all for today! Thank you so much for making it this far in my post and I hope to see you in the next one! Make sure to follow my Instagram if you want to stay updated on my plant adventures!

http://www.Instagram.com/JaysTropicals

Please pin this to your Pinterest boards! Your followers will thank you later 🙂

My Favorite Rare Houseplants!

Philodendron Melanochrysum Care Guide

Today we’re talking about our Philodendron Melanochrysum Care Guide. I’ll cover everything I know about how to care for a Melanochrysum, from growing conditions to propagation. This is all from personal experience and what’s currently working best for me.

The Philodendron Melanochrysum is one of my favorite aroids in the Philodendron family. I’m especially in love with the dark & velvety leaves, and that color change from when a leaf is unfurling to hardening is seriously so gorgeous. Another common name for the P. Melanochrysum is the “Black/Gold Philodendron”. It gets that nickname from her fresh leaves as the color begins with an orange when it unfurls and slowly transitions to a darker green as the leaf hardens off.

Philodendron Melanochrysum Care Guide | How to care for a Philodendron Melanochrysum
pssst! Save this to your Pinterest boards!

P. Melanochrysum is a surprisingly quick grower as well. Mine which resides in my Ikea Greenhouse Cabinet is constantly pushing new leaves, one after the other. Another reason this aroid is so popular right now is because of its easy care. It’s a great plant for people looking to expand their collection and dip their toes into the more uncommon houseplants.

Read next:
10 Velvety Plants You Need To Own
Know When To Re-pot Your Plant
15 Variegated Plants You Didn’t Know Existed
The Complete Hoya Care Guide

Without further to do, lets get into the Philodendron Melanochrysum Care guide!

I said earlier that I find this plant easy to care for, much like other Philodendrons and Monsteras. We’ll cover lighting, watering, potting soil, fertilizers, humidity, and propagation. I hope that by the end of this article you’ll have gained all the confidence and be more than prepared to take on your own Melanochrysum!

Lighting Requirements

The Philodendron Melanochrysum prefers bright but indirect light. Too harsh of light can scorch the foliage and leave burn marks. They are tolerant to medium and low light settings, and may still grow regularly, although you most likely wont see much development in the plant as she grows. A bright and shaded area is perfect for this Philodendron.

I grow one of my Melanochrysums in an Ikea Greenhouse Cabinet which I mentioned about earlier. It doesn’t receive any natural sunlight, so I heavily depend on grow lights to keep these plants photosynthesizing and growing. It’s important to find the right kind of light for your plants, and its a common misconception that you need to use those standard purple grow lights which are pretty unsightly to me. More often than not you can get away with using normal LED light bulbs, which is what I use for a vast majority of my grow lights. In a perfect world you will want a bulb that produces between 3000 & 5000 lumens, although these can be difficult to find.

I’ll go into grow lights and specs in a different article, because there is a lot more to know than just that when choosing the perfect grow lights for your plants.

Philodendron Melanochrysum Care Guide
My small Melanochrysum growing in my Ikea Greenhouse Cabinet

Watering Needs

So this is pretty standard with most Philodendrons. Water your Melanochrysum only when the top 2 inches of soil has dried out. You can either poke your finger around in the dirt or use a moisture meter to determine how saturated the soil is at the moment.

I’ve found that they are tolerant to drying out between waterings and you won’t get much fuss if you are a day or so late, but definitely do not let the soil get bone-dry. What happens then if their soil is way too dry is that their roots in the soil will dry up with it. Because of that, your Melano will spend more time growing new roots and getting settled in again rather than producing those gorgeous leaves.

Potting Soil Mix

Melanochrysums prefer a chunky and well draining soil mixture. This mix is dependent on who you ask, but for me I like using a 60/20/20. 60% Fox Farms Ocean Forest Soil, 20% added pumice, and 20% added orchid bark. This ensures that the soil will drain water properly and lets oxygen get to the roots.

A well draining soil medium is also important to combat wet feet (root rot). You never want to leave your potted plants sitting in water for too long or having their soil constantly sopping wet. If you run into a situation like this my recommendation is to do an immediate repot into fresh dry soil, but do not water immediately. Wait one day after the repot then give it a good drink, this gives the plant time to properly dry off their roots and avoid further rot.

How I Fertilize

I use the same standard for most of my collection when it comes to fertilization and it seems to go against the grain with what others say. I really only use one brand of plant food, and its Superthrive. I dilute a few drops of it in my watering can before I fill it up and I water all of my plants with this solution. Now the thing is, I do this every single time that I water my plants. When I portion out my Superthrive I lessen the dose by roughly half of the suggested amount.

One of my more mature Melanochrysum. I left a container of water nearby to maintain higher humidity near the plant.

I’ve been following this water & fertilization routine for a year now and my plants are so so so happy about it. Right now during these colder months of the year its expected that plant growth will slow down due to the decrease in light and drops in temperature. I use grow lights as a way to make up for lost sunlight and the Superthrive to keep them getting important nutrients which they have all responded very well with.

Humidity Requirements

It is important to keep your Melanochrysum in at least 60% + humidity. If you can consistently maintain higher humidity that is even better for them. The one living in my Ikea Greenhouse Cabinet rests in about 90% humidity all day long.

Philodendron Melanochrysums are notorious for tearing leaves as they unsheathe and unfurl a new leaf. There is nothing more disappointing then eagerly waiting for a new leaf to come out but it gets stuck at some point and creates rips and holes in the leaf. Plants with velvety leaves have a harder time unfurling smoothly because of the texture, so it is very important to provide extra humidity.

Philodendron Melanochrysum Care Guide | Philodendron Gigas unfurling a new leaf
This is my Philodendron Gigas currently working on unfurling this new leaf.

If you notice a new leaf isn’t unfurling after it gets pushed out then all you need to do is grab a spray bottle with just some water and give that fresh leaf a good spritz. Do that as often throughout your day as you feel you need to, but resist the urge to help it unfurl with your hands. While you may be successful sometimes, its even more disappointing ripping a leaf with your hands when you were just trying to help it unfurl. Patience is key!

Propagation!

I have propagated oh-so many Philodendron Melanochrysums. From air-layering to outright chopping, these plants can handle being propagated well. To take cuttings from your Melanochrysum you’ll want to determine where its nodes are throughout the main stem. Much like other plants, simply cut beneath a node and transition to your desired propagating method.

For me, my go to propagation method is a mix of Sphagnum Moss & Pumice (about 70/30.) I use clear plastic cups which I buy at my local store in packs, and I use a heat stick to burn a number of holes into the bottom to create proper drainage. I like using the small clear cups as pots because it lets me monitor new root growth on my cuttings. I only use the cups when I have a cutting with a leaf attached to it.

For cuttings that do not have a leaf attached, simply just a node, I lay it down on a blanket of moss inside of a plastic tupperware container. This closed container acts as a miniature greenhouse with high humidity, which aroids love. I typically see new roots and growth points within 2-3 weeks of taking the cuttings. Once the node has pushed out at least 2 fresh new leaves in that container, along with a couple roots that should be a few inches long, I then transition the cuttings out of that and into their forever home where they will continue to grow.

I have many Philodendron Melanochrysum nodes growing in this prop box, all in different stages of growth.

It’s so very important to make sure your plants are ready to be moved out of propagation. I rarely ever transition props that haven’t grown any new leaves, or just one leaf. I’d say that isn’t enough time. By the second or third leaf of your new plant, it will be ready to move on. When you pot up cuttings too soon you are putting quite a lot of pressure on a small plant to thrive, and oftentimes leads to more plant stress or risk of it dying entirely because it wasn’t ready to live on its own like that.


I think that about covers everything! If you enjoyed reading this and learned a thing or two from it, it would mean the world to me if you can re-pin this article to your Pinterest Boards! It’s a small favor to ask and it seriously helps us grow the blog so we are able to continue providing these detailed guides to you all for free! Thank you soooo much in advance <3

Philodendron Melanochrysum Care Guide | How to care for a Philodendron Melanochrysum

You can also follow me on Instagram! I share lots of information about my aroid collection along with many more care guides! You can find my page here.

Know When To Re-pot Your Plant

When do I re-pot my plant?

One of the most imperative parts of insuring the health and longevity of your plant is it’s soil and knowing when to re-pot your plant. Be mindful when re-potting. This can be stressful on some plants and should not be done frequently or without consideration. You can re-pot a plant any time of year, but always consider your climate and your plant’s current environment. Roots exposed to colder temperatures are more stressed than those in warmer environments. Re-pot your plant at the tail end of winter and the beginning of spring. Your plant will have time to adjust in its new home before its strongest period of growth.

This Hoya Super Eskimo has been re-potted with fresh soil in its original planter.

Know When To Refresh Your Soil

Replace your potting mix every 1 to 2 years. There is only so much vitamins and fertilizer can do for your soil. Over time, the nutrients in your plant’s soil are depleted. Soil can become compact over time and roots will suffocate. Roots need oxygen in order to perform at their best. Soil becomes too hydrophobic if the soil is left dry for extended periods of time. Even if you wish to keep your plant in the same pot, adding fresh soil will help facilitate the vitality of your plant. Don’t be afraid to prune some roots and pot your plant in the same planter. Always sanitize your planter before potting, even if you are reusing the same pot.

Over time salt and minerals build-up in your soil. When we use tap water, it has a tendency to solidify calcium and other minerals. This is often seen in bathrooms and kitchens. In plants, you can observe calcium build up on foliage and porous planters like terracotta. Don’t forget to flush plants monthly to remove excess salt and mineral build-up.

This Manjula Pothos is happy in her slightly snug pot.

Don’t Forget To Root Check

Take this opportunity to observe your plants root health. Whether this plant has been in your care for some time or it is the newest addition to your collection, you should be checking your plant’s roots. Healthy appearance in foliage isn’t always indicative of root health.

Root aphids and root mealybugs can be lurking in the soil. These pest often go unnoticed until the plant starts to show signs of decline or you see them on the rim of the pot. Root mealybugs colonize in their distinct cottony blue grossness on the roots and soil.

The most important thing you should look out for is rot. Root rot does not that happen overnight. Soil remaining wet after 7 days requires examining the roots. If you find your self in this situation, gently remove all of the substrate and carefully tease the roots loose. Rinse the remaining soil and prune any dead and mushy roots off. Go to your spice cabinet and sprinkle some cinnamon on the roots. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide and helps reduce transplant shock. However, I highly recommend having something a little stronger in your arsenal such as Sulfur and Physan 20. These products are more effective at killing and stopping the progression of root rot. You can find my favorite products for treating root rot here.

Pictured here you can see the mineral build up on this terracotta pot.

Choose The Appropriate Pot Size

When selecting the next home for your plant, consider the following. If choosing a larger pot, go for a planter 1 to 2 inches larger. Most plants like to be relatively snug. Planters come in all sizes. It’s better to have too snug a pot than too large. Always make sure your planter has drainage.

Too large of a pot makes drainage more difficult. The medium will remain too wet for too long leading to root rot. Roots should be able to absorb all of the water between watering. Avoid using potting soil straight out of the bag and consider customizing your own mix. Coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, horticultural charcoal, and orchid bark are excellent soil amendments to have on hand. You can scale these to better match your plant’s needs, environment and watering habits.

This adorable Philodendron Mamei planted in Fox Farm, horticulural charcoal, perlite, and orchid bark.

Signs Your Plant Needs A Re-pot

Consider re-potting if your plant has become root bound. You will notice the tell-tale signs of roots coming out of top soil, or most often out the drainage holes. If your plant is showing signs of stress, becoming scraggly, pale or slowly growing it may have become pot bound.

It is time to change pots when the plant is easily knocked over or top heavy. Often times nursery pots do not hold enough weight for tall, showy foliage like the classic Bird of Paradise or most Alocasias. Move your plant into a sturdier and heavier pot such as terracotta or ceramic.

This Philodendron Birkin had a strong root system and was climbing out of its pot.

Check out my Instagram to see my collection of tropical plants and aroids. Thanks for reading. Happy planting!

10 MORE Cascading Houseplants You Can Grow Indoors!

We are coming BACK today with 10 MORE cascading houseplants you can grow indoors for home decoration! Since our last post did so well on this topic, we decided to make a part two! Thanks for the overwhelming support on our blog, we sincerely appreciate it. <3

If you haven’t already, make sure you catch up on our Part One to this series!

And just before we jump into it, go ahead and Pin this to your planty boards! Your followers will thank you :).

10 More cascading houseplants you need in your collection!

And starting us off with our number one spot is…

1. Cebu Blue Pothos

Cascading Houseplants - Cebu Blue Pothos
Photo via JaysTropicals

This stunning plant has a gorgeous blue tint to it under softer lighting. You can grow Cebu Blue Pothos in 2 ways really: Either cascading down for a lush and full look, or you can train the plant to grow upwards by providing a moss pole as support! When this plant is given the opportunity to grow vertically it will actually fenestrate in maturity! Here’s a picture for reference

Seriously stunning plants with so much versatility to them! And they are quite common to find in stores on Etsy or sometimes local plant shops.

2. Peperomia Hope

Cascading Houseplants - Peperomia Hope
Photo via JaysTropicals

This Peperomia is one of my favorites for oh-so many reasons. It grows these cute, plush circular leaves that are surprisingly firm to the touch. It is a prolific grower in the right conditions and so easy to propagate! If you’re having trouble growing Peperomias in your home, read our article here to help understand what they do and don’t like.

If you have one of these beauties in your collection then you’ll understand why we are so in love with it. It’s different than many other peperomia that typically grow upright, so this trailing cutie is definitely a favorite.

3. Hoya Curtisii

Cascading Houseplants - Hoya Curtisii
Photo via JaysTropicals

The Hoya Curtisii is an underrated plant for sure! These small but striking little leaves go such a long way. It cascades beautifully down showing off her variegation, and if you’re lucky you can get even cuter flowers! This plant is a prolific grower under the right care and is so rewarding to watch as it fills in a space.

If you would like help with growing Hoyas, we dedicated an entire article about them here! Give it a read, its got lots of useful information to take your Hoya game to the next level, while also showcasing some of our favorite Hoyas!

4. Variegated String of Hearts

Cascading Houseplants - Variegated String of Hearts
Photo via leafmealoene

This elusive plant is definitely a show-stopper. Unlike its regular green cousin, this cutie has white splotches spread across its foliage and the newer growth comes out with a cheeky pink color before it fades to the creamy white. The care for the Variegated String of Hearts is a bit tedious and requires close attention. They prefer bright indirect light and bottom waterings once the soil dries out.

You can also easily propagate this plant using the “Butterfly method”, watch this video for a tutorial on how to do that!


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5. Hoya Bella

Cascading Houseplants - Hoya Bella
Photo via leafmealoene

The Hoya Bella is another one of those striking, statement piece houseplants. It is a more forgiving hoya and great for beginners. As you can see, plants can have so much potential when left to grow out a space! Hold back on the chopping this year and just let your plants take over.

6. Tradescantia Nanouk

Tradescantia Nanouk
Photo via plantsoffice

This pink gem is easily one of my favorite in the tradescantia family. The nanouk is a great plant to have if you’re looking for a bit of color in your collection. Those bright new pink leaves give us life, and the best part is is that they are easy to care for! You can also conveniently propagate them in water where their new roots will come rushing out in 1-2 weeks.

7. Lemon Lime Maranta (Prayer Plant)

Lemon Lime Maranta (Prayer Plant)
Photo via tats.plants

The Lemon Lime Maranta is a perfect addition for those of you who maintain a little higher humidity in your home. They are also called the Prayer Plant because once the sun goes down their foliage folds upwards looking much like praying hands! The brighter green colors this brings to your jungle is sure to stand out from the rest, but be wary for if your humidity is too low the edges of the leaves will crisp up!

8. Philodendron Brasil

Philodendron Brasil
Photo via byefleafa

The classic Philodendron Brasil. This is a staple plant in most people’s collection, and for good reason too. This gorgeous Philodendron has the most unique variegation spread across its foliage and each new leaf is so much different from the last. They are also so easy to propagate in water!

9. String of Turtles

The String of Turtles, aka the Peperomia Prostrata is an underrated trailing houseplant. Although they are difficult to take care of, they are so worth it. As their name implies, they have cute little turtle shell patterns across their leaves. In the right growing conditions these can be very prolific, and can be easily propagated using the butterfly method we mentioned earlier.

10. Scindapsus Truebii Moonlight

Scindapsus Truebii Moonlight
Photo via plant_piggy

The Scindapsus Truebii Moonlight is another elusive houseplant we can’t get enough of right now. These are especially cool for their thick and waxy leaves, compared to the normal semi-fuzzy Pictus. Either way, this one is a must have for any collector.


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10 More cascading houseplants you need in your collection!

Well that is 10 MORE Cascading Houseplants for your plant collection! Hope you enjoyed reading, truly. If you’d like to take a peak at my personal collection of fun aroids and tropicals, head over to my Instagram page!

10 Velvety Plants You Need To Own

Welcome back! Today we’re on the topic of velvety plants that you need to own if you’re a sucker for soft textured leaves like we are!

10 Unique Velvety Houseplants You Need

First things first, if you aren’t following our Instagram yet go ahead and check it out! We post and talk about plants in our personal collection and you get an inside of what our life is like! http://www.instagram.com/jaystropicals

Without further to do, our first plant on this list.

1. Alocasia Frydek

The Alocasia Frydek was on of the first “uncommon” houseplants I ever bought online, and when I got it she came with 5 beautiful leaves.

Over the course of a few months her growth was slow and she was losing leaves faster than growing them. So, I panicked. When there was only one leaf left on the Frydek I took her out of soil and put the entire bulb and roots in sphagnum moss. Ever since then she’s been growing leaves very quickly and hasn’t been losing any! It was a quick decision I made that I wasn’t sure if it would pay off but I’m happy to say it did!

I keep mine in bright indirect light, she is still in the moss so I only water her once the moss gets dry. I’ve had her in moss for about 3-4 months and she’s done nothing but thrive for me since! I keep her fairly close to a humidifier but the room humidity overall doesn’t typically get over 50%.

2. Philodendron Gloriosum

The Philodendron Gloriosum is second on this list because this plant was second to the Frydek for uncommon plants I started collecting. I got mine when it had only two leaves and a growth point, fast forward 4 months she’s unfurled a new beautiful leaf and is currently working on her fourth one!

My Gloriosum also gets bright indirect light via my grow lights and sits close to the humidifier as well. I have her in soil that retains more moisture than not so I don’t need to water too often.

3. Scindapsus

So if you know plants very well you’ll know that Scindapsus is actually a large family of plants, and not all of which have velvety leaves but for the purpose of this article we’re just going to refer to the ones that do.

Scindapsus is one of my favorite trailing plants because of their silver hue that makes them stand out from the rest of a green jungle. Mine have proved to be slow growers for me but I hear of many others saying they’re one of their fastest growing plants.

4. Philodendron Micans

Look at this cutie! The Philodendron Micans is unfortunately a plant I don’t have in my collection anymore but I used to have a small pot of a few cuttings. I ended up selling that pot and told myself the next time I get a micans it will be a nice full pot of them.

If you own a Philodendron Micans you’ll know that the leaf colors go through an entire shade range when they unfurl and harden off. From oranges to magenta they’re definitely a unique plant to own!

Make sure you follow us on Instagram and check out the plants we’re growing in our collection! http://www.instagram.com/JaysTropcicals

5. Calathea Warscewiczii

I have proved I am not worthy yet of a Calathea Warscewiczii from the many past calatheas I’ve unfortunately killed. May they Rest In Peace.

I’ve been so tempted a few times to pick one up when they were coming in circulation of Lowe’s and Home Depot plants but I resisted the urge.

6. Philodendron Verrucosum

My favorite local nursery nearby has these in stock and they’re as stunning in person as they are in photos. They have red on their backside of their leaves along with a little fuzzy stem that has small hairs poking out.

Definitely a wishlist plant of my own to say the least.

7. Philodendron Gigas

The Philodendron Gigas is such a unique plant in the Philo family in my opinion. Unlike most other philodendrons, the Gigas leaf shape grows more elongated and tall compared to the normal heart shaped leaves.

8. Alocasia Black Velvet

This is a plant I plan on getting very very soon. First because I’m addicted to Alocasia, and second because I’m addicted to velvety plants, which is why I have the Frydek too.

I like this plant especially because of it’s more rounded off leaf shape and of course that darker color you don’t typically see on plants.

9. Purple Passion

So, long story short: I got this plant in my earlier houseplant parenthood years and it lasted for about 2 weeks. In that unfortunate time period I managed to both overwater and sunburn her. Poor girl didn’t have a chance.

Just because of that traumatizing experience I shared with this plant I probably won’t be getting another soon. But it’s for the better anyways.

10. Anthurium Clarinervium

So, the Anthurium Clarinervium has been a top wishlist plant for a very long time in my book. I have yet to actually even own an anthurium because I get psyched out on if I can take care of them or not and I don’t want to take the risk.

But I will say, when I do have the confidence to take care of that plant I will definitely be getting one.


That’s all for our 10 velvety houseplants! Make sure you follow us on Instagram to know when we post more articles like this!

http://www.instagram.com/jaystropicals

Make sure you repin this article if you enjoyed it, we appreciate all of the amazing support we receive from our readers! Much love everyone.

Hoya “Wax Plant” Complete Care Guide

Today we’re going over a Hoya “wax plant” complete care guide. Covering everything you need to know in order to grow a large and lush Hoya of your own! It’s easier than you may think too, let us show you.

Pin this for later!

At some point in your plant collection obsession journey, you are bound to own a Hoya. There are so many different varieties out there in all shapes and sizes.

Hoyas are also commonly known as the wax plant. This is because their blooms are shiny and resemble a wax figure.

Hoya Care Guide
credit from the wonderful @goodandplantiful on Instagram.

Types of Hoyas

Let’s go over a few popular types of hoyas you will commonly see.

  • Hoya Hindu Rope
  • Hoya Krimson Queen
  • Hoya Krimson Princess
  • Hoya Curtisii
  • Hoya Bella
  • Hoya Kerrii
  • Hoya Linearis

The list goes on and on..

Hoya Care Guide
via @rose_rue_and_the_pea

Check out some of our other care guides for these plants:
Monstera Deliciosa
Pothos & Philodendron
Peperomia
English Ivy

Lighting Requirements

Hoyas are a pretty versatile as far as lighting goes. They tolerate low and medium light, but you probably won’t see blooms unless they are in bright indirect light.

They could happily live in a south facing window behind a sheer curtain to protect them from the sun. They also do best with 2-4 hours of bright light a day.

You are also able to use artificial grow lights, they are best for people without much natural sunlight in their home.

Hoya Care Guide
via @foliagejournal

Humidity

While Hoyas do appreciate higher humidity, they can also thrive in just your normal house humidity without additional help. You would notice though, they grow better with a little higher humidity.

If you aren’t able to get a humidifier for your home, try the pebble tray method. This is where you get a saucer, fill it with pebbles, then fill it with water and place the plant on top of it. Be careful to not let the water touch the pot because that could cause soil saturation which could lead to root rot.

The pebble tray method essentially creates a bubble of humidity around the plant by evaporating water which the plant absorbs.

Hoya Compacta Variegata
via @goodandplantiful

Watering

Water requirements vary from Hoya to Hoya, so be sure to look up your plant specifically for this one. For most Hoya, you are safe to let the soil dry out completely before watering.

They prefer room temperature water, tap water is fine also.

It’s best practice to water your plants early in the day, that way the sun helps absorb some of the moisture and doesn’t let the leaves of the plant be wet when the sun goes down and temperatures drop.

Water your plant until you see it dripping out of the drainage hole on the bottom, and remember to remove any excess liquid as to not let it sit in water and potentially cause problems.

You’ll also notice that you need to water your Hoyas more in the growing season which is Summer and Spring. During the colder months of the year, slow down on watering and allow your plant to dry out a bit more in between.

Hoya Care Guide
via @arapisarda

Propagating

Hoyas are easily propagated by node cuttings. You can find the node where the leaves touch the stem, and always cut below the node.

You can propagate Hoyas like you can most plants. Through water, soil, perlite, or leca. It takes between 4-6 weeks for good roots to form and be transferred to soil.


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15 Variegated Houseplants You NEED In Your Life

Hi everyone and welcome BACK this week for another houseplant showcase! This week we are spotlighting our favorite rare and elusive variegated houseplants. I apologize in advance for your bank account if you end up going out to buy one of these bad boys.


Starting off our #1 spot will be the..

Monstera Borsigiana Variegata

Monstera Borsigiana Variegata
Monstera Borsigiana Variegata via @harrison_plants

The variegated monstera, one of the most sought after variegated plants on the market right now. I was actually gifted a very juvenile yellow variegated monstera deliciosa that I’ve been raising for a little bit and I’m pretty proud of her.

See my Monstera Deliciosa Care Guide


Dracaena White Jewel

Dracaena White Jewel
Dracaena White Jewel via @houseplanterr

I stumbled upon this plant when I was planning out this post and didn’t know this existed before-hand, but nevertheless, added to the wishlist.


Heliconia Variegata

Heliconia Variegata
Heliconia Variegata via @hocusficus

I’m kinda all for this Helicionia, it stands tall and has gorgeous striped variegated leaves.


Philodendron Florida Beauty

Philodendron Florida Beauty
Philodendron Florida Beauty via @jus__plants

The Philodendron Florida Beauty has been on my wishlist since I first started collecting plants early this year, and every time I see a photo of one it re-ignites my love for them.


Philodendron Florida Ghost

Philodendron Florida Ghost
Philodendron Florida Ghost via @pream.houseplants

This is the sister plant to the Philodendron Florida Beauty, they share a somewhat similar leaf shape but the biggest difference is that the variegation on this plant is only on new leaves it produces. Once the leaves mature they turn fully green.


Philodendron Pariaso Verde

Philodendron Marinaruybarbosa
Philodendron Marinaruybarbosa via @noplantnolife

When I first saw this plant I assumed it was the Philodendron Burle Marx, but it turns out I was way off. I kind of like the variegation on Pariaso Verde more than I like the variegated Burle Marx, the BM has more of a yellow hue to it than this one does.


Philodendron Ring of Fire Variegata

Philodendron Ring of Fire Variegata
Philodendron Ring of Fire Variegata via @monsterasandkitties

Another one of those plants that have been on my wishlist forever that I would kill for. It’s leaves shapes are so unique and the variegation is very splashed on the leaves which I’m obsessing over.

Check out some care tips of ours for Philodendrons! Read here


Thai Constellation Monstera

Thai Constellation Monstera
Thai Constellation Monstera via @the_fancywalrus

The sister plant to the Monstera Deliciosa Borsigiana. The difference between the two here is the pattern the variegation takes. This one is a lot more splattered and over the place compared to the Borsigiana where the variegation has a more consistent shape.


Variegated Alocasia Frydek

Variegated Alocasia Frydek
Variegated Alocasia Frydek via @notanotherplantsgram

So my favorite plant I own right now is my Alocasia Frydek just because it’s been growing so well for me since I got it and was the first Alocasia I ever owned. Now imagining the same plant but with variegated velvet leaves, living for this.


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Variegated Banana Tree

Variegated Banana Tree
Variegated Banana Tree via @ranggakuzuma

Rumor has it these are very hard to obtain and very expensive, and I see why. I will own the Variegated Banana Tree one day that is for sure.


Variegated Chain of Hearts

Variegated Chain of Hearts
Variegated Chain of Hearts via @_plant_stop

I have been wanting to get a Variegated Chain of Hearts since I found out these existed. I’m growing the normal green CoH right now and I am obsessed with how cute it is, but imagine having one that’s white and pink.


Variegated Fiddle Leaf Fig

Variegated Fiddle Leaf Fig
Variegated Fiddle Leaf Fig via @inkcacti

So you thought normal FLF trees were hard to care for? Try your hand at growing a variegated version of this! I would love to have one in my home but I don’t have enough confidence that it would survive unfortunately.

If you’ve enjoyed this so far please share this to your Pinterest boards! If you liked it, so would your friends!


Variegated Monstera Adansonii

Variegated Monstera Adansonii
Variegated Monstera Adansonii via @elefantorat

I only very recently saw this variegation for the first time and I was a little taken back, because we all know of the normal Monstera Adansonii but when the first variegated ones made their way around instagram and pinterest, it was love at first sight.


Variegated Syngonium

Variegated Syngonium
Variegated Syngonium via @girl_with_plant_addiction

They are some of the most pretty plants I’ve ever seen and I don’t know why I don’t own one yet. Soon, though.


White Fusion Calathea

White Fusion Calathea
White Fusion Calathea via @i_soiled_my_plantaloons

I was actually about to order one of these myself until the two calatheas I currently own started falling ill and their leaves started yellowing, so until I regain my confidence with caring for calatheas I’ll have to wait on this beautiful plant.


It’s honestly a little bit of a goal of mine to start a plant YouTube channel, who would be interested in seeing vlogs for plant care, hauls, tours, etc? If you would like to see that comment below or subscribe to my channel and I’d love to give that a try!


What was your favorite plant on this list? Or what is your favorite variegated plant that wasn’t on this list? We love to hear from you!

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hi, jason here, the guy behind Pastel Dwelling

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English Ivy Plant Care Tips | Hedera Helix

Happy Tuesday, everyone! We’re back this week to teach you how to grow English Ivy (and just about any ivy, really) indoors as a beautiful houseplant!

I really do have a love/hate relationship with Ivy, when I first started my plant collecting journey I went out and got a gorgeous variegated ivy from my local store, and within 2 weeks time I completely killed it off. Whoops.

Anyhow, I challenged myself to try it again, and do it right this time. So today I’m going to share with you everything that your Ivy needs in order for it to grow long and lush.

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How to grow English Ivy (Hedera Helix) indoors

What kind of lighting does English Ivy need?

Ivy does best in well lit areas, they do need quite a bit of light to really flourish. I wouldn’t recommend placing them somewhere where they get direct sunlight for very long, but if you can find a comfy spot that receives good indirect light throughout the day, you hit the jackpot.

Lighting is one of the things I see most people getting wrong when growing Ivy as a houseplant, because they’re not at all a low-light plant. Putting your ivy next to an East facing window will do it a lot of good.

Massive English Ivy

How much water is enough?

Like many plants, really, they prefer to dry out between waterings. It’s best to check 1-2 inches into the soil and feel for moisture before you water your ivy. They are pretty prone to getting root rot disease due to their thin and shallow growing roots.

This is a tip I try remind myself all the time when I water my plants, you can always water the soil more if you need to, but once it’s in there, you can’t get it back out. Less is more when it comes to watering. If you’re on the edge about whether or not the soil is dry enough, just wait an extra day, it’s probably for the best.

English Ivy Houseplant Care Guide

English Ivy and humidity

So ivy is definitely a humidity lover and they would appreciate having probably 40%-50% humidity at the least in your home, but they would be okay without it. I’m currently growing it in my home right now without a humidifier in the room and it’s thriving, just a preference.

Read these for more houseplant care tips:
How To Care For A Bird of Paradise
Pothos & Philodendron Care Guide
Monstera Deliciosa Care Guide

English Ivy Plant Care Guide

Important side notes

  • Pests: It’s fairly common knowledge that Ivy attracts pests. Specifically the malicious spider mites. A way to prevent this from happening is by getting a humidifier to combat dry air, which the mites love. If you do get them though, wipe off all of the leaves with a soft rag and a water & dish soap solvent. Do that weekly until there aren’t any signs of them left.
  • Toxicity: English Ivy is also a toxic plant according to the ASPCA. Keep them out of reach of children and curious pets in your home to prevent unwanted doctor visits.
  • Invasive Species: It’s also pretty known that Ivy is an extraordinary invasive species of plants. It started off as a landscaping detail in North America and it spiraled out of control by getting into native forests and other natural areas. Keep this in mind if you are to plant this outside, because it is a vicious grower and will dominate any terrain you put it on
  • Vine Damage: Ivy is vine that loves to climb and grow upwards. Because of this you want to be aware of what it is climbing on, because the roots they grow in order to attach themselves to surfaces can damage walls and structural integrity if it gets out of hand. You’ll want to prune it often if it does get out of control in order to prevent a hefty maintenance bill.
  • Propagation: You can also easily propagate Ivy like you would most vining plants! Simply cut beneath the nodes on the stem and plop them in a jar with water, and they’ll start rooting within 2 weeks!
English Ivy Propagation

There ya have it!

That’s really all there is to know in order to grow English Ivy as a flourishing houseplant! If you have any other questions, comment them below and I’d be more than happy to answer!

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Until next time,

Why Your Peperomia Is Dying

Welcome back, ya’ll! Thanks for joining in on another week with us at Pastel Dwelling! So, did you get your hands on a cute little Peperomia, although you’re not very sure on how to keep it alive? I got you, it’s what I’m here for.

Why your Peperomia houseplant is DYING.
Peperomia Care

The very first Peperomia I got was a Variegated Teardrop Peperomia, I got it sickly from Walmart and was determined to keep it alive. But.. that didn’t go the way I hoped. She’s dead now.

So I took that as a challenge, I was determined to grow a Peperomia and keep it alive.

So, how do you keep it alive? Here’s what you need to know.

Watering a Peperomia

Figuring out how to water these guys was what I struggled with the absolute most. I just assumed to let the top inch or so of the soil to dry out and give her another good watering, but that’s not actually the case.

After some extensive research, I found out that their soil needs to be significantly more dry than that in order to water again, I mean about 5 inches down into the soil dry.

This is because Peperomias have such small and fine roots that they are extremely susceptible to root rot, which is their biggest killer grown as a houseplant, we just love them too much.

So yeah, let them dry out almost completely. Check about 5 inches deep in the soil for moisture, if it’s dry, you’re good to go.

Peperomia Care | How to care for a Ruby Cascade Peperomia

Light requirements

So Peperomias are similar to succulents in a few ways, their watering schedule and how Peperomias store water in their leaves, as well as their lighting needs.

Peperomias are a bit flexible with their lighting needs, they will do best in bright indirect light from a west or east facing window, but could grow just as well in medium light.

How to propagate

So once again I’m going to reference that propagating Peperomias is going to be very similar to propagating succulents. You can propagate through leaf cuttings, steam cuttings, or by division.

You usually want to let the wound of the plant harden over before you go and stick it in the dirt or some water to prevent infection. Hardening over can take from a few hours to maybe just overnight.

Peperomia Care | How to propagate a Peperomia

Temperature and humidity

Peperomias prefer to be in an environment that is on the warmer side rather than the colder. They also originated in the Tropical Rainforests of Brazil, so they prefer to have a higher humidity around them, although you could probably get away with normal household humidity.

Fertilizing your Peperomia

During the growing season only, which is summer, you’ll want to fertilize your Peperomias about once a month. Be careful not to fertilize in fall or winter, because the plant has most likely gone dormant by that time and isn’t going to want to have added chemicals sitting on top of the roots.

How to care for a Peperomia

That’s about all there is to it! If you need any more help with your Peperomia or identifying what it needs, leave a comment below!

As always, happy growing!

How To Grow A Bird Of Paradise Houseplant

Want to know how to grow a Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) houseplant? You’ve came to the right place.

Bird of Paradise Care Guide

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Bird of Paradise houseplants are a wishlist plant of mine that I am proud to say that I now own for myself. I got mine at a nursery in a “discount” section that aren’t typically ready for sale or are damaged in some way, so I scored mine for only $20. (and she is one hefty momma)

I bought mine on a total whim, without really knowing what to do with it and how to properly care for it, and so many online care guides out there lacked so much important information that is honestly crucial to their happiness.

So, that’s why I’m here. To stop the transitions of websites in order to find at least a basic care guide for them. But I’m going above and beyond, this is your one-stop-shop of houseplant care. Welcome to Pastel Dwelling.

Now, straight to the point.

Bird of Paradise Care Guide

What lighting your Bird of Paradise needs

This was something I had a difficult time finding online, and so many guides at there had blurred lines about what they need in order to continue growing and to really thrive in your home.

So, to be blunt, they need a lot of sunlight. Not just partial indirect sunlight like the middle of your living room gets. I mean, they need to be about a foot from your south facing windows. I actually currently have mine outside on my patio because that’s where she is going to get the best light for her.

If you are mainly wanting it just for the home aesthetic look and really want it in that room of yours that doesn’t honestly get any light, I would consider investing in a grow light that you can hang above it.

Get a hanging grow light, it’s $20. You aren’t going to be breaking the bank with this purchase and it will serve you very well and your Bird of Paradise will thank you for it in the long run.

Bird of Paradise Care Guide

Water requirements for your Bird of Paradise

This is where I saw the most grey areas in online guides. It isn’t that hard, really.

During the summer, keep the soil moist. During the winter, let it dry out between waterings.

That wasn’t so hard. In the summer (any warmer month really), which is the growing season, you will notice your Bird of Paradise pushing out the most growth in that 5-6 month span. That’s why you will need to be on top of watering it regularly, because it’s going to be using up all the water you give it.

Keep the soil moist, not wet, not soggy. Moist means that the soil is almost dry on the surface, but is still retaining at least some moisture that you can physically feel and touch.

During the winter and colder months of the year, the Bird of Paradise plant will become dormant. You probably won’t see hardly any growth during this time, and because of that, you are not going to need to water her as nearly as often as you would in the summer.

In the colder seasons, when the first 3 inches of soil is completely dry, that’s when I recommend watering your Bird of Paradise.

Bird of Paradise Care Guide

How to fertilize a Bird of Paradise

You will only need to fertilize 2, maybe 3 times in an entire year. Do it no more often than every 3 months and only fertilize during the growing season.

Anything more than that can cause roots to burn due to constant chemicals being put into the soil mix and your plant will die. It’s as easy as that.

Also be cautious when you fertilize that you don’t leave any on the leaves of your Bird of Paradise because that can lead to burning and scarring, so if you do accidentally get some on your leaves, be sure to wipe them clean as soon as possible so they don’t sit for long at all.

How to care for a Bird of Paradise

Until next time,

Happy growing!

Pink Indoor Houseplants to Beautify Your Home


Hey y’all happy Saturday! Today is an overall pretty great day, I’m attending my first plant swap here in Phoenix, Arizona (will post pictures when I come back from it!) So yeah, super excited!

Today we are talking about plants. Pink ones to be exact. I have gathered this list of the most beautiful pink plants on the planet that you are able to get and grow in your own home.

Without further to do, here we go.

Calathea Triostar (Stromanthe Sanguinea)

Match it with the perfect plant-pot combo!


Nerve Plants (Fittonia Albivenis)


Ruby Pink Rubber Tree (Ficus elastica)


Wandering Jew (Tradescantia Tricolor)


Pink Princess Philodendron (Philodendron Erubescens)


Polka Dot or Freckle Face Plant (Hypoestes Phyllostachya)


Tri-Color Oyster Plant (Rhoeo Spathacea)


Earth stars (Cryptanthus Pink Star)


Aglaonema Creta


Dracaena Marginata Tricolor


Cordyline Ruby


Rainbow Peperomia Ginny


Anthurium’s


Rex Begonia


That’s all for today, guys! Hope you enjoyed this list and were able to add a few of these to your own houseplant wishlists!

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Until next time,

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10 Houseplants That Are For Absolute Beginners

Houseplants for beginners, well, did you get bit by the plant-bug recently? Join the club! I’ve been noticing an increasing trend of growth (hehe) in the houseplant community and I couldn’t be happier about it!

So, you want to know the best houseplants to start off with? You definitely came to the right place. Today we’re going to go through 10 of my favorite houseplants that I have never had trouble growing in almost any condition they’re put in, and are very low-maintenance.

1: Golden Pothos

Houseplants for beginners | Golden Pothos

This plant is extremely easy to start off with. They are very fast growers and tolerate a lot of different levels of light and irregular watering schedules. Coming from experience, I have never killed off one of my golden pothos plants before.

If you’re looking on where to get them, I OFTEN see them at Lowe’s in small little plastic pots for $3.98, so go check them out and get one for yourself!

Read my other article for a full care guide on pothos!

We curated some care sheets for taking care of your herbs! The best part? It’s completely free!


2: Philodendron Brasil

Houseplants for beginners | Brasil Philodendron

These cute little guys are closely related to the Pothos family, but still very different in their own ways. Nonetheless, very easy to take care of. I have had my philodendron for probably over a year, and the biggest difference I see compared to the pothos, is that mine doesn’t grow nearly as quickly as my pothos.

My philodendron has tolerated me forgetting to water it for weeks, for leaving it in way too dark of corners in my house for extensive amounts of time, and just honestly constant neglect. Not my proudest moment, but I have literally never lost a leaf from it after all of that abuse.

From what I’ve noticed, they aren’t actually very common plants, I would recommend checking out local houseplant Facebook groups and seeing if someone has one you are able to buy or get a clipping from to start growing your own.

I also have a complete Philodendron care guide written here! 😉


3: Monstera Deliciosa

Houseplants for beginners | Monstera Deliciosa

I’m going to get mixed comments about this pick I’m sure, but I have never had any issues with growing my Monstera Deliciosa. I live in Arizona, which literally has almost year-round dry heat and extreme fluctuating temperatures. I also owned this plant and watched it thrive for about 6 months before I even got a humidifier for it, never have I ever lost a leaf in the entire ownership of my plant.

The Monstera Deliciosa was super trendy and popular back in 2018, which means that their prices have significantly dropped since they were first “discovered” in the houseplant community.

You’ll be able to find Monstera Deliciosas at most nurseries, they’re fairly easy to come across and the average price I’m seeing is roughly $20-$25 for them.

Read my Monstera Deliciosa care guide!


4: Pilea Peperomiodes

Houseplants for beginners | Pilea Peperomiodes

Another one of those plants that aren’t traditionally seen as easy plants to grow, but I’m going to tell you otherwise. They’re a bit uncommon to find even in most nurseries still, but they are well worth the effort in searching for.

All they really need is a spot where they can receive a decent amount of indirect sunlight, and you’ll be set. Rotate them often though, because their leaves tilt heavily towards the sun and it will just grow uneven, but if you want that, then that’s how you can do it!


5: Spider Plant

Houseplants for beginners | Spider Plant

I’ve honestly grown a bit of an obsession of these guys recently. I was gifted a few spider plant babies to propagate for myself and they have been so fun to watch grow and thrive in my home.

I totally think spider plants are super underrated too, get off your rare plant high horse and grab yourself a spider plant and you’ll fall in love with it as much as I have.

They are pretty common in most stores and nurseries so you shouldn’t have hardly any problem getting ahold of one of these babies.


6: Snake Plant

Houseplants for beginners | Snake Plant

Okay you probably figured this one was going to be on the list, but I mean, it’s here for a reason! They are super easy to take care of and thrive in so many different situations they are put in.

I have one mother plant that I went and took a bunch of clippings from to propagate into more little babies, and I am so eager to start seeing them sprout new plants and grow up into their own.

They are a bit of a slow growing plant, so I often don’t pay attention to mine but every once in a while I’ll give it some attention and just be super proud of all the growth it’s been putting out slowly in the background of my home.

Snake plants are also very easy to find in most stores, and they have a range of prices but you will most likely see them sold for about $20.


7: ZZ Plant

Houseplants for beginners | ZZ Plant

I know, another one of those cliche easy houseplants you see pretty much everywhere. But here’s a little story of my experience with them; my day job is at a call center, and I’ve seen the ZZ plant scattered around by the people who designed the office and for the longest time I thought they were plastic.

I thought that simply because I didn’t expect them to do so well with literally no natural light and more often than not put in pretty dark areas, yet, they were absolutely thriving. Just goes to show how low-maintenance these guys are.

Good luck even thinking about killing these guys, they’ll probably outlive you.

We curated some care sheets for taking care of your herbs! The best part? It’s completely free!


8: Aloe Vera

Houseplants for beginners | Aloe Vera

These are probably one of my favorite plants I have ever grown. I got my first Aloe when I was living in my apartment, and I pretty much set this guy on the windowsill, watered him no more often than I paid my rent, and he absolutely thrived.

I have a deep love for them especially because they are so many different genomes of Aloes out there, you would definitely be surprised by a few of them I’m sure.

Bonus points to them for their medicinal use too!


9: Dieffenbachia

Houseplants for beginners | Dieffenbachia

The Dieffenbachia is another plant that people might be questioning me putting up on this list, but let me tell you why they’re wrong. Back in my early plant parenthood this was one of the very first plants I got for myself because I was super obsessed with the foliage.

Fast-forward a month, my Dieffenbachia unfortunately got a bad case of mealybugs and I had to fight them off for quite a while, and it led me to pruning the hell out of him until he was pretty baren with literally only 4-5 leaves left. (originally had at least 20-30 leaves)

With a little bit of hope and love he made an extraordinary recovery and completely bounced back from the attack and he has never looked better since then.

I only have him placed in front of my east-facing window and water only once his soil is completely dried and I’ve only ever seen him put out new growth and just be overall super happy in my home, that’s why I think these plants are pretty low maintenance and great for beginners.


10: Dracaena

Houseplants for beginners | Dracaena

And the last houseplant on my list, the Dracaena. Mine has been nothing but great and fortunate for me. I honestly have a bad tendency to forget about him because he is more out of the way than most of my plants, so out of sight and out of mind.

Never had an issue with pests, never lost leaves due to under-watering, and they tolerate low and high light levels pretty well so they are versatile for almost anywhere in your home.

These are on my top 5 favorite houseplants too, I love the different varieties that are out there and just generally feel much more tropical than most of my other plants, which I’m obsessed with.

We curated some care sheets for taking care of your herbs! The best part? It’s completely free!


That’s all for today! If you learned something new today or found some value in this post, it would mean the world to me if you could share this on Pinterest! Such an effortless act can help us immensely and we appreciate every single one of our readers! 🙂

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Happy growing, and until next time,

Tropical Houseplants in Arizona

How I’m Growing Tropical Houseplants in Arizona

Everyone wants tropical houseplants, right? They’re gorgeous, can’t blame you.

Well, here’s to another week, everyone! Thank you so much again for stopping by! Your support means the world to me and I cannot thank you all enough!

But as a token of my appreciation, I think I’m going to be hosting a little bit of a giveaway here pretty soon. Who would be interested in entering to win rooted Variegated Syngonium (arrowhead plant) clippings?

More on that later though. If you don’t want to miss it, just enter your email below and I’ll send you it when it’s ready!


Cactus Wall
pic via @jungle_collective

Back to our regularly scheduled program.

So, what’s it like living in this super dry heat state and trying to grow tropical houseplants? It does definitely have its disadvantages, but I’m here to prove to you that it is absolutely possible.

Here is a quick list of some tropical houseplants that I’m currently growing, and that are thriving in my home.

Tropicals I have growing in my home:

  • Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
  • Ficus (fiddle leaf fig, rubber tree, etc)
  • Syngoniums (arrowhead plants)
  • Philodendrons
  • Sansaveria (snake plant)
  • Dracaena
  • ZZ Plant
  • Monstera Deliciosa

Those are just the ones off the top of my head. I have many more than just those but I’ll save that list for another day.

So, how do I manage to accommodate these gorgeous plants to thrive in my home and promote growth frequently? It’s pretty easy actually. Here is what I pay attention to the most in my home in order to make sure they all stay happy and healthy.

String of Hearts
String of Hearts via @leafmealoene

Read my other article on houseplants that don’t require much sunlight!

Humidity

Humidity is such a huge factor in this honestly, maybe the biggest downside to living in Arizona. But I didn’t let that stop me now, did I. Inevitably I did end up buying a humidifier for my home, but I also went a very long time before that and still provided my plants enough humidity.

Some people recommend spritzing your plants with a spray bottle to provide humidity, but I’m just going to tell you that that method doesn’t hardly do anything for your plants. The “humidity” that brings to your plant lasts maybe 30 minutes at maximum. Not an effective method.

What I did though, was station all of my humidity-loving plants in my bathroom with me when I showered, because all of the heat and water would steam up the entire room very well and my plants absolutely adored it. Doing that every day or at least every other day goes so far with your plants and they will thank you for it very much.

Of course, when I did get my humidifier, it completely changed the game for me. No longer did I have to haul 15 massive plants to my bathroom. Not this guy.

One thing you have to be careful though when you get your humidifier is making sure that the humidity it provides actually stays in the room and doesn’t vent out. This can be so easily done by just leaving a door open for a few minutes at a time, you’ll see your room humidity percentage slowly go down, and you don’t want that.

I currently only own 1 humidifier so I have to quarantine my humidity as much as possible so it doesn’t escape and I’m just wasting my time with it.

Staghorn Fern
Staghorn Fern via @foliagelove_r

Lighting

For those of you who don’t know, Arizona is a very brightly lit state, at all times. Rarely ever do we get overcast days or some days we are completely without clouds altogether. So most often there is a sun constantly beating down on us at all times.

Normally, south and southwest facing windows indicate High Light areas. But for some regions in Arizona when you have that constant sun, your west facing windows can seem to produce those kinds of light levels. So you definitely need to be careful with choosing the location of your plants.

Luckily I have a roof going over the south side of my house as well as a wall so that direct sun isn’t so bad. It only lasts for the early 3-4 hours of the day and I’m actually able to keep many of my plants on that windowsill and it’s perfect for them.

Shout out to everyone else though in Arizona who is making do with these harsh lights and no treatment for it! Kudos to you.

Watermelon Peperomia
Watermelon Peperomia via @so0tie

Watering

I water my tropical houseplants way more often than normal because many of my plant pots dry out so much faster than others’ just because it really can get hot inside my home and the water evaporates pretty fast.

A normal care guide suggests a 6″ pot will dry out and need to be watered in about a weeks time, but mine dry out baren in about 3-4 days if they’re close to the windows. So because of that, of course, I do need to water more frequently.

As far as my plant food and fertilizer goes, I do not apply that frequently whatsoever. I keep on a pretty tight schedule of once every two weeks and I only ever do 1/4 of what the directions say for the amount to feed them because delicate roots can be burned by fertilizers super easily.

Monstera Deliciosa
Monstera Deliciosa via @deplantenbakker

Risk of ordering plants online

This is nearly impossible sometimes and just about any website I visit to order plants says that by sending them to Arizona they cannot promise the plants come safely or alive because temperatures soar over 100 F for 4 months of the year.

I’ve ordered succulents online before, they took about 6 days to get here and they came without any issues, perfectly healthy. The only other time I’ve ordered a plant was a Calathea Orbifolia, and it was dead and gone by the time it got here. The shipping time was only 3 days too. Maybe it was how the people packaged it that killed it off in that time, but I know the package sat outside of my house for 30 minutes prior to me getting it and I’ll never forgive myself for not being home then.

What’s done is done though, there is definitely a risk to ordering tropicals in the more warm months of the year. Since then I’ve stuck to visiting my nurseries and big box stores and trying to convince them to special order something for me that is rarely grown in this region.

Begonia Maculata
Begonia Maculata via @foliagelove_r

Thank you all again for joining in on another week! Like I said earlier I will be hosting a giveaway sometime in the month of May! If you don’t want to miss it just put your email in below and I’ll send you all of the info when it’s out!

Side note: I am also in the works of creating that Houseplant Care Course for you all! It’s getting nearly ready to publish for you all, just adding in the finishing touch-ups!

Stay connected with me on Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram! Chat with me about plants!

Also, if you are growing any tropical houseplants in your home in these hotter areas, how is it working for you? Share your stories and advice in the comments!

Growing tropical houseplants in the dry heat | Growing tropical houseplants in Arizona | Tropical houseplants in Arizona | Tropical houseplants in California | Tropical houseplants in Texas | Tropical houseplants in mexico
Plants that can live in a bathroom | low light houseplants | houseplants for bathrooms | indoor plants that require low light

Houseplants That Can Live In Your Bathroom

We all want houseplants kinda everywhere, right? It’s a little bit of an obsession lets be honest here. I personally don’t keep any in mine (and if I do, it’s so my tropicals get lots of humidity from the shower). But, that doesn’t mean you can’t have them in yours!

Houseplants that can live in your bathroom | Houseplants for bathrooms | indoor plants for bathrooms | low light houseplants | low light indoor plants
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We’re going to go over a handful of extremely resilient plants that would survive living in your bathroom! I’m just gonna say it before we get started though. All because these plants are able to survive in these conditions, it isn’t their ideal environment and you shouldn’t expect them to grow at their normal rate, and I would take them out every once in a while for some real light maybe a few times a week.

I also have an entire guide on indoor houseplants that don’t require a lot of sunlight! It is a bit more in-depth on their care as well, it’s worth the read! Check it out

let’s get into it, shall we?

These choices of plants are based mostly on their light resilience, because obviously a bathroom does not provide enough light to nourish and keep most plants alive (unless you have Kim Kardashian’s bathroom), so this list is primarily plants that are tolerant to little to no light conditions.

Kim Kardashian’s bathroom (i’m pretty jealous)

Dieffenbachia


Chinese Evergreen


Peace Lily

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Snake Plant


Spider Plant


ZZ Plant

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Cast Iron Plant


Dracaena