Well that’s all for today! Thank you so much for making it this far in my post and I hope to see you in the next one! Make sure to follow my Instagram if you want to stay updated on my plant adventures!
One of the most imperative parts of insuring the health and longevity of your plant is it’s soil and knowing when to re-pot your plant. Be mindful when re-potting. This can be stressful on some plants and should not be done frequently or without consideration. You can re-pot a plant any time of year, but always consider your climate and your plant’s current environment. Roots exposed to colder temperatures are more stressed than those in warmer environments. Re-pot your plant at the tail end of winter and the beginning of spring. Your plant will have time to adjust in its new home before its strongest period of growth.
Know When To Refresh Your Soil
Replace your potting mix every 1 to 2 years. There is only so much vitamins and fertilizer can do for your soil. Over time, the nutrients in your plant’s soil are depleted. Soil can become compact over time and roots will suffocate. Roots need oxygen in order to perform at their best. Soil becomes too hydrophobic if the soil is left dry for extended periods of time. Even if you wish to keep your plant in the same pot, adding fresh soil will help facilitate the vitality of your plant. Don’t be afraid to prune some roots and pot your plant in the same planter. Always sanitize your planter before potting, even if you are reusing the same pot.
Over time salt and minerals build-up in your soil. When we use tap water, it has a tendency to solidify calcium and other minerals. This is often seen in bathrooms and kitchens. In plants, you can observe calcium build up on foliage and porous planters like terracotta. Don’t forget to flush plants monthly to remove excess salt and mineral build-up.
Don’t Forget To Root Check
Take this opportunity to observe your plants root health. Whether this plant has been in your care for some time or it is the newest addition to your collection, you should be checking your plant’s roots. Healthy appearance in foliage isn’t always indicative of root health.
Root aphids and root mealybugs can be lurking in the soil. These pest often go unnoticed until the plant starts to show signs of decline or you see them on the rim of the pot. Root mealybugs colonize in their distinct cottony blue grossness on the roots and soil.
The most important thing you should look out for is rot. Root rot does not that happen overnight. Soil remaining wet after 7 days requires examining the roots. If you find your self in this situation, gently remove all of the substrate and carefully tease the roots loose. Rinse the remaining soil and prune any dead and mushy roots off. Go to your spice cabinet and sprinkle some cinnamon on the roots. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide and helps reduce transplant shock. However, I highly recommend having something a little stronger in your arsenal such as Sulfur and Physan 20. These products are more effective at killing and stopping the progression of root rot. You can find my favorite products for treating root rot here.
Choose The Appropriate Pot Size
When selecting the next home for your plant, consider the following. If choosing a larger pot, go for a planter 1 to 2 inches larger. Most plants like to be relatively snug. Planters come in all sizes. It’s better to have too snug a pot than too large. Always make sure your planter has drainage.
Too large of a pot makes drainage more difficult. The medium will remain too wet for too long leading to root rot. Roots should be able to absorb all of the water between watering. Avoid using potting soil straight out of the bag and consider customizing your own mix. Coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, horticultural charcoal, and orchid bark are excellent soil amendments to have on hand. You can scale these to better match your plant’s needs, environment and watering habits.
Signs Your Plant Needs A Re-pot
Consider re-potting if your plant has become root bound. You will notice the tell-tale signs of roots coming out of top soil, or most often out the drainage holes. If your plant is showing signs of stress, becoming scraggly, pale or slowly growing it may have become pot bound.
It is time to change pots when the plant is easily knocked over or top heavy. Often times nursery pots do not hold enough weight for tall, showy foliage like the classic Bird of Paradise or most Alocasias. Move your plant into a sturdier and heavier pot such as terracotta or ceramic.
Welcome back, ya’ll! Thanks for joining in on another week with us at Pastel Dwelling! So, did you get your hands on a cute little Peperomia, although you’re not very sure on how to keep it alive? I got you, it’s what I’m here for.
The very first Peperomia I got was a Variegated Teardrop Peperomia, I got it sickly from Walmart and was determined to keep it alive. But.. that didn’t go the way I hoped. She’s dead now.
So I took that as a challenge, I was determined to grow a Peperomia and keep it alive.
So, how do you keep it alive? Here’s what you need to know.
Watering a Peperomia
Figuring out how to water these guys was what I struggled with the absolute most. I just assumed to let the top inch or so of the soil to dry out and give her another good watering, but that’s not actually the case.
After some extensive research, I found out that their soil needs to be significantly more dry than that in order to water again, I mean about 5 inches down into the soil dry.
This is because Peperomias have such small and fine roots that they are extremely susceptible to root rot, which is their biggest killer grown as a houseplant, we just love them too much.
So yeah, let them dry out almost completely. Check about 5 inches deep in the soil for moisture, if it’s dry, you’re good to go.
So Peperomias are similar to succulents in a few ways, their watering schedule and how Peperomias store water in their leaves, as well as their lighting needs.
Peperomias are a bit flexible with their lighting needs, they will do best in bright indirect light from a west or east facing window, but could grow just as well in medium light.
How to propagate
So once again I’m going to reference that propagating Peperomias is going to be very similar to propagating succulents. You can propagate through leaf cuttings, steam cuttings, or by division.
You usually want to let the wound of the plant harden over before you go and stick it in the dirt or some water to prevent infection. Hardening over can take from a few hours to maybe just overnight.
Temperature and humidity
Peperomias prefer to be in an environment that is on the warmer side rather than the colder. They also originated in the Tropical Rainforests of Brazil, so they prefer to have a higher humidity around them, although you could probably get away with normal household humidity.
Fertilizing your Peperomia
During the growing season only, which is summer, you’ll want to fertilize your Peperomias about once a month. Be careful not to fertilize in fall or winter, because the plant has most likely gone dormant by that time and isn’t going to want to have added chemicals sitting on top of the roots.
That’s about all there is to it! If you need any more help with your Peperomia or identifying what it needs, leave a comment below!
We all want houseplants kinda everywhere, right? It’s a little bit of an obsession lets be honest here. I personally don’t keep any in mine (and if I do, it’s so my tropicals get lots of humidity from the shower). But, that doesn’t mean you can’t have them in yours!
We’re going to go over a handful of extremely resilient plants that would survive living in your bathroom! I’m just gonna say it before we get started though. All because these plants are able to survive in these conditions, it isn’t their ideal environment and you shouldn’t expect them to grow at their normal rate, and I would take them out every once in a while for some real light maybe a few times a week.
I also have an entire guide on indoor houseplants that don’t require a lot of sunlight! It is a bit more in-depth on their care as well, it’s worth the read! Check it out
let’s get into it, shall we?
These choices of plants are based mostly on their light resilience, because obviously a bathroom does not provide enough light to nourish and keep most plants alive (unless you have Kim Kardashian’s bathroom), so this list is primarily plants that are tolerant to little to no light conditions.
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Cast Iron Plant
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Those are all of my picks for plants that can live inside of your bathroom! Just a tip though, not every plant is the same as the last and it is super important to watch out for signs, if you see the plant’s health declining, then it might be the result of lack of nourishment, and in that case, maybe it should only be a part-time bathroom plant.
Read a little further for some insight on what I’ve been up to recently!
Side note apart from this article today for those who are interested: I’ve been working tirelessly on a Houseplant Care Course that will be available for download later in the year! This is also part of the reason why my recent articles haven’t been as extensive in the writing because in all honesty I’ve been spending a lot more time writing out my course than I have been these articles, but I’m still going to stay true to my posting schedule for Pastel Dwelling, every Tuesday and Saturday :).
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